There are good reasons to come to Hamburg, but the food is rather none. Or is it? Explorations between Franz and fish sandwiches.

Hamburg guests Make especially sick of: fish sandwiches photo: imago images / the JOKER

to Ensure that the North Germans are supposedly taciturn, debate, you are surprisingly happy. Franz rolls, for example. How doughy it may be, how crispy it must be, how much cinnamon is too much, and how much it needs to stick in front of sugar? Finally, it Needs all the new-fangled variants, pumpkin and sunflower seeds, sprinkles, rice pudding, toffee chunks? For this purpose, each*r in Hamburg to have an opinion.

The Franz bun is considered to be a culinary Highlight of the city. However, whether anyone really anywhere else, the Hamburger*envied inside about how it claims the tourism advertising? Not even a real bun is a "Franz", more of a plate leaves snail dough – allegedly under the Napoleonic occupation, failed the Croissant test. The spiders of such legends, the hamburgers are pretty creative: it is not Originated here, the ochenschwanz soup, which is today, post-BSE, only rarely really? On the one hand, the other just say so.

There are good reasons to come to Hamburg, but the food is rather none. Or? That gap is a fine dining South-North, is not to be dismissed out of Hand, and that Hamburg is very far away from, say, Italy, as well. And anyway, this Protestant, this sober Tradition ... What is in the North already Enjoy?

But the more accurate you are is in Hamburg, Yes Lutherans and Luther, the Birth was not so remote now. And, above all, the Leude like here as a pragmatist that too much adherence to Principles like the other leave.

we Take the eel soup, which is also a typical Hamburg: Will probably be a soup with eel, is it? Hamburg is also on a river, and not very small. According to Thomas Sampl – cook and author of the book, and, well, actually East Westphalian – the fish is quite in the oldest surviving recipe, such as root vegetables, beans, dried fruit, and pork. Stevan Paul – food stylist and journalist, and actually, upper Schwabe – is the fish but not an integral part of the soup. Aal may, but need not, so to speak.

Much more important: a decent ham bone and "Aalkraut", but also ambiguities prevail. This is a specific plant that accompanied the fish particularly well? Or a mixture of five, six herbs, so a Hamburger equivalent of the green stuff-the Canon of the Frankfurt "Grie gravy", the Green sauce?

On Sunday in Hamburg. Like ticking the last safe port of the SPD? Two taz-Reporter 48 hours. Their findings read in the taz on the weekend of 22./23. February. Also, The rotation of the Berlinale Competition entry "DAU: Natasha" it came to sexual violence and abuse of power. And: Roland Kaiser in a conversation about pop, the SPD and the courage of his convictions. Starting on Saturday at the Kiosk in the kiosks, in the practical Wochenendabo and round-the-clock in Facebook and Twitter.

stews and soups a take in quite a lot of space in the local cook books, and the material reasons for this: A kitchen used to be narrow for the inhabitants of the part very, "course" referred to inner-city streets is a luxury. What you had was a (wood)stove on the plank. For cooking the fires specifically, but to keep warm if it heats up anyway, this went on.

those Who speak of a typical Hamburg cuisine, speaks at all almost always from the food of poor people. This is also unlikely to clean of the surrounding area. A lot of fish there was – as the salmon here in the rivers and Canals of the sponge, was also feasted in the something of the simple people. This includes Apples, and cherries from the Old country, peas, carrots, asparagus, different varieties of Cabbage, and what Fields and pastures were of no use yet. Of which there were, to the port and industry took place in Hamburg, not a few.

So the island was where now is the brick-dominated districts of Veddel and Wilhelmsburg lie, long as the "milk island". And before the potato was, cooked and ate many dumplings and Meatballs, and "Büddel", so in the kitchen cloth and steam cooked flour food, the English Pudding related.

let's go back to eel soup. A other today, holding the end of the story is that the Name derives instead from the fish easily from the low German. "Aalns am", all, came, what was left of the day before, left: all the best rest, recovery and a lovely stew, not only for the frequent gray days. The eel itself was, therefore, part of the Tradition, because visitors*requested inside of the city again and again after that.

the Same discussion can be lead on the question of whether for soup, a roll pug belongs to. At fish it's not for lack of seafarers, which have traditionally catered to with the so delicious as unsightly Matschepampe beef and potato and Beetroot, just. So, whether it's the expectation of the coast, distant audience, was that since fish go?

Because the Hamburger*this is inside the tourism and its requirements, in whole Hanseatic-pragmatically unprincipled pretty much subordinate, undeniable. And believes, at the latest, who looks like shipping here, barge way, the musical audience of the landing bridges to the other side of the river. The landing bridges: only that here, especially many of the expected Fischbrötchenhöker around to Tourist*relieve inner hunger lucrative to the right, around the corner, the "Portuguese quarter" begins.

relationships for small sailors*indoor-Nation Hamburg for over 400 years, from 1590, also Sephardic Jewish*settled on the inside of the Elbe. Today, around 10,000 in Portugal*live here, but it has less to do with a particularly free and Hanseatic city of air do, a lot of the "guest workers" who came in the 1960s (and probably with the very different economic situation in the Euro area).

So Hamburg might be far away from the European South – to your Galão, the Portuguese Version of the Italian caffè e latte, are the people here, but at least as proud as once the Astra-Pils. And who is new in town, must think, vanilla pudding or semolina filled Natas, cancer of the meatballs and the well-to hangover Breakfast taugende sharp steak sandwiches were urhamburgische specialties. So often, as here, there is all of this allegedly only in Portugal itself.

but a trip to the Elbe replace the Algarve, which, in turn, would claim no one seriously. Well, the Hamburg tourism advertising, perhaps.